A taste of little France
A bountiful tropical sea that once covered France and southern England, means we share a wine producing geology. Chalk.
The Chilterns are located in the space between London and Oxford, two big and busy urban conurbations, yet it’s still possible to go remote. The Radnage valley is just that: accessible down windy, tree-covered lanes, you’ll find Daws Hill Vineyard at the very end of the longest and narrowest of these.
Allow time for getting lost
This valley settlement is not typical cluster around a village green. Rather it’s as if a child has thrown marbles and the resulting scatter of pubs, church, village hall, vineyard and farmhouses are Radnage. It makes for confusing navigation along the narrow tunnel-like lanes, unable to see over the top, nor see what’s coming: I squeezed past a horse, hikers and so many men in lycra whooshing past! It’s not to be rushed.
Old ties
Daws Hill was planted by Holly’s father, Nigel Morgan in 2004 upon discovering the farm was perfect for grapes. He decided to bring a little of France to the Chilterns.
They grow the traditional champagne varieties, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, along with Auxerrois for their sparkling wines. They also produce a variety of ciders from locally picked apples.
I wasn’t there for the cider, I had joined a group to help bring in the autumn harvest of Auxerrios and Chardonnay grapes that will become their 2019 sparkling white wine.
Radnage is renowned for its population of red kites, mewing loudly and circling lazily overhead. The sun was warm and we picked in pairs, careful to not snip each others finger tips off as we peeled back the leaves to expose the bunches.
I chatted with my fellow pickers, some of whom have been volunteering all year to see the process through from pruning to picking. What a pleasure!
I was reminded that wine making is a process that relies on human senses; touch, taste, smell, sight and sometimes, pounding power. Of course mechanisation makes for better efficiency, but the wine maker is still in control. Daws Hill is the real deal, a small producer heavily invested in bringing to market a product nurtured from the chalk, but influenced by an International industry. We are privileged to have them.
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Quick links
Holly would be delighted to welcome you on a tour and taste at Daws Hill Vineyard and winery throughout the year.
The nearby Mash Inn serves up a storm of local tastes over an open fire.
There are so many walks in and through this rolling Chilterns countryside, I recommend Visorando to help you on your way - and to find the refreshment stops.
I recommend reading Couchfish who has some sensible things to say about travel.
