Buddhists in the Beechwoods

In my day job I say ‘to expect the unexpected’ when exploring the Chiltern Hills. In this tucked away corner of St Margarets, Great Gaddesden, I found the unexpected.

Dec 14, 2022

I have walked past the Amaravati Buddhist Monastery many times, en route between Nettleden, Frithsden and Ashridge, but have never gone in. I never thought to sit quietly in the gardens or even visit the temple for peaceful reflection.

In the Pali language ‘Amaravati’ means ‘deathless realm’

The valley of nettles

In woodland between the hamlets of Nettleden and Great Gaddesden in the Hertfordshire Chilterns, is the Amaravati Buddhist Monastery. This unassuming site has been a place of worship and study for over 400 years.

St Margarets de Bosco (or Ivinghoe) Priory was founded circa 1130 by Henry de Blois, Bishop of Winchester, a man of fabulous wealth, palaces and power. Grandson of William the Conqueror, brother to a king and importantly for this story, builder of villages, canals, abbey’s and churches.

The Priory was dissolved in 1536, the buildings abandoned. Nothing of note to record expect that the site was used as a boys school for evacuees from London during the Second World War. The school closed one week after the end of the war, when all the boys were returned to their homes.

Since 1984 it has been home to the Amaravati Buddhist Monastery.

Deathless realm

The Monastery’s community of monks and nuns practise in the Theravada tradition. Their aim is to train and support the resident monastic community, and the facilitation for monastic and lay people alike for the practice of the Buddha’s teachings. Lay people, Buddhist and others, are welcome to visit or stay as guests, and live with the monastic community.

The Monastery’s founder and abbot was Ajahn Sumedho, Ajahn Chah’s foremost disciple in the West. In Autumn 2010 he handed over to the English monk Ajahn Amaro, who for the past 17 years has also been co-abbot of Abhayagiri Monastery in Redwood Valley, California.

An image of the Bonshō are used to mark the passage of time and to call monks to liturgical services — Bonshō are used to mark the passage of time and to call monks to liturgical services

The configuration of several large huts has remained largely unchanged, and gives the site a Scandinavian look and feel. In contrast, the purpose-built temple that was opened in 1999 by Princess Galyani Vadhana, sister of the King of Thailand, is a unique Chilterns feature.

A man prays inside the temple — Inside the temple

If you come upon a monk whilst out on the woodland and valley trails, they may be doing their walking meditation, so don’t expect more than a nod and smile.

Although he is now buried in Winchester Cathedral, there are claims that the heart of Henry de Blois was buried in Cluny Abbey in France, whilst the rest of him and his artefacts were moved in the 17th century from St Mary’s in Ivinghoe (nine miles from St Margaret’s), to the splendid cathedral at Winchester.

What kept him in a simple Chilterns parish church all those years?

Quick links you will need

The Amaravati Retreat Centre has been holding retreats since the monastery was first established in 1984. The retreats are led by monks and nuns trained in the Ajahn Chah tradition originating from the north-east of Thailand, which is part of the Theravada tradition of South Asia. The gates are open from 6.30 am until 9.30 pm, or sometimes later if there is a meditation vigil. There is no need to book to visit.

Explore more of the naturally outstanding Chilterns with ideas for winter.

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Micro Travels with Mary

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