G is for the Goring Gap

Two villages face off across the River Thames, rivalries friendly, but one outdid the other when William Turner chose to paint Goring mill and church.

Welcome to the next instalment of my new A - Z Chilterns Treasures journey of discovery in the Chiltern Hills. This week is G for the Goring Gap where you will find the conjoined villages of Goring and Streatley, snug in the Gap.

The autumn sun lies low, just above the trees, casting long shadows over the ant hill-strewn hillside, leaves scudding uphill meeting the birds, shooting the breeze. I can see as far as Pangbourne to the north east and know that the views from Hartslock reserve on the hillside opposite, looking back to the Gap are just as dramatic.

Yes, the views opposite from Hartslock Nature Reserve are as dramatic

The Chilterns are not short of pretty villages surrounded by beautiful undulating countryside. Add far-reaching views, the River Thames and the Goring Gap, a stone’s throw from Reading, must rank near the top. This is what never ceases to amaze me about where I live: we are so close to major urban centres, but there is plenty of space to escape and breathe. Bring a picnic too!

Naturally outstanding

The villages of Goring and Streatley have a long and sweeping history (at least 10,000 years), nestled as they are in the gap that the Thames has carved between two impressive chalk hillsides; to the south west, the north Wessex Downs in Berkshire, to the north east, the Oxfordshire Chilterns, both now designed as National Landscapes.

A popular option is the Miller of Mansfield - named after the medieval ballad, The King and the Miller of Mansfield

Not always good neighbours, their fortunes have ebbed and flowed. Streatley was once the larger and more important village because it was on the turnpike road to Reading. The Bull Inn at the top of the high street was a 15th century coaching inn and I expect a welcome sight on the dusty road. With the arrival of the railway in 1840, Goring reasserted itself having more usable land for the many new homes.

On the river, you get a real sense of space, somewhere to pause, listen and enjoy this special place. The tower of St Thomas' Church is visible, renowned for a fine peal of eight bells and dedicated team of ringers. Inside you’ll find one of Englands oldest bells, dating back an impressive 800 years and is also where Charles Lutwidge Dodgson, better known by his pen name of Lewis Carroll used to preach.

Joseph Mallord William Turner, Goring Mill and Church, c.1806–7, digital image; © Tate Britain released under Creative Commons. London 2015 CC-BY-NC-ND (3.0 Unported) Further information

These two villages face off across the River Thames, rivalries friendly, but one outdid the other when William Turner painted Goring mill and church.

The weirs still control the level of water for navigation, water supply, and land drainage. It’s not hard to image the bustle of boats, traders, soldiers and drovers, who used the three ancient trade routes that span southern England from Dorset to East Anglia, all converging at this lovely spot; the Thames Path and Ridgeway National Trails and Icknield Way, could easily tempt you off the road and onto the trail.

I’m your man!

The villages are not short of famous residents and visitors, George Micheal bought his house in 2001, saying “this is about as English and historical as you can get!”

At the end of Ferry Lane is the original river crossing and Ferry house, where Oscar Wilde stayed during the summer of 1893 and began work on ‘An Ideal Husband’ - no secret then of the origin of the characters Sir Robert and Lady Chiltern, and Lord Goring. Sir Arthur (Bomber) Harris lived here for 30 years too, his birthday and funeral marked by a low-key RAF fly-past.

The house that George Micheal shared with his partner Kenny Goss.

An idyllic spot for a wander around the villages or to start your walk along either of the three long-distance Trails, depending on how much time you have.

I am looking forward to next week’s A - Z instalment with the letter H. H is for…..headless horsemen, a ghost who packs guests’ suitcases and others who like a drink at the bar. Celebrating Halloween in the Chilterns. Do you have any ghostly tales to share?

All images and content are copyright of Mary Tebje and may not be reproduced without permission. If you enjoyed this post, please share and give it a ❤️

G is also for Gin

Some of you will know that I also write a B2b newsletter and am currently featuring local entrepreneurs who are making a difference to the visitor economy. This month is the turn Puddingstone Distillery co-founders, Kate and Ben Marston whose business not only distills Hertfordshire’s sense of place, but their gin is pretty fine too!

Links you will need

If you see any images you like, for yourself or as a gift, head on over to Chilterns Gifts, our online shop. If, however there are images you don’t see in the shop, contact me here and I can arrange exclusive (framed) prints.

There is a comfortable short circular walk and I recommend starting from the National Trust car park at Lardon Chase, above Streatley. The views are glorious and from up here that you can enjoy the dramatic backdrop of the two villages clustered around the Goring lock and weir, the playing fields, leisure boats and island, to the patchwork of the Chiltern Hills beyond.

Friendly locals looking for a treat

There will be sheep grazing, many of them expectant mothers who don’t need to be bothered by dogs. Please keep yours on a lead if you are walking with your hound.

There is a good train service to Goring and plenty to occupy you for the day or weekend. Take a look at the Visit Goring website for seasonal events and ideas.

Here are others A - Z instalments to browse;