J is for James
What are the ingredients for a good mystery? Notoriety, a mysterious death, royalty and religion, international travel and a symbol that is now recognised around the world. Oh, and a mummified hand.
Welcome to the next instalment of my new A - Z Chilterns Treasures journey of discovery in the Chiltern Hills, the space between London and Oxford where I live. Last week I shared the letter ‘I’ with some of the independent businesses who make our region the special place it is. To those of you who told me you were disappointed your business was not included, I will find ways to include you in the future.
This week is the letter ‘J for James’, the Hand of St James, a curiosity that fits perfectly with this newsletter because it’s a story like no other: a discovery in a ruined abbey, royalty and religion, a mysterious death, international travel and big business.
The hand that has passed through many hands
The story begins in Reading in 1786 when the builders who were digging the foundations for the Reading Gaol discovered a casket with a mummified left hand in a wall at the east end of the abbey church. It passed through many private hands until it was enshrined in 1855 in the Pugin-designed chapel at Danesfield House, the owner also commissioned the building of a new Catholic Church which is how its final journey was to St Peter’s in Marlow, where it’s now kept in a cupboard in the sacristy.
The story really begins in 1046…or does it?
The Hand ’s timeline begins in Bremen Germany in 1046, when it was presented to Archbishop Adalbert, when he dies, it passed through many high profile hands before reaching Reading Abbey, where it was enshrined by founder King Henry I in 1133. Reading Abbey was an important, wealthy religious centre and later become home to the medieval cult of St James.
It had come from France via the Holy Land - it’s complicated, but made headlines when a number of documented miracles (mostly cures) took place from 1155 - 1189 and caused an international incident as the Holy Roman Emperor demanded its return. ‘No way, Jose” said Henry II, who ordered the consecration of Reading Abbey by Thomas à Becket later of the St Thomas Becket fame.
It’s a cure!
I was taken on a detailed tour of the back-to-back St Peter’s church’s by their deacon, a personable chap called Kevin. He got stuck in straight away with stories of present day “unverifiable” miracles - nothing to do with the Hand, but was keen to set the scene of how God moves in mysterious ways to cure those in his parish who believe. This was the scene-setter in a church designed by the prodigious Augustus Pugin, who found time to turn out vast numbers of Catholic churches whilst redesigning and rebuilding the Houses of Parliament in the 19th century.
We chatted with some parishioners and a cleaner who told me her colleagues, the Spanish cleaners were very excited and quite moved to hear that the Hand of Santiago was in the church. Because Santiago, or Saint James is the patron saint of Spain and what are believed to be his remains are in Santiago de Compostela in Galicia. It’s known as the culmination of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, probably the most famous pilgrimage and the alleged burial site of the Biblical apostle St. James.
Big Business
Long distance walks and pilgrimages, whether undertaken in a group or as an individual are gaining in popularity and accessibility right across Europe. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that amidst all the congestion, traffic fines and building sites that are Reading today, is located the symbol of St James - the medieval scallop shell which is still the badge of the pilgrim.
The new St James’ Way, the English Camino is approximately 68.5 miles / 110km long and starts from Reading Abbey via Winchester, to the port of Southampton, which is where pilgrims may have sailed to France or Spain on their way to the shrine at Santiago de Compostela.
The cynic in me scoffs at the business of relics, but looking past the obvious benefits visitors bring, to see the veneration of relics was integral to the safe passage of the medieval soul and an important part of the religious economy. In 1180, the relic collection at Reading Abbey included more than 230 pieces of bone, dust, wood and bloodstained fabric including Christ’s sandal, his foreskin (one of just 17), and pieces of bread left over from the loaves and the fishes story. I imagine there was also an extensive range of souvenirs? Visit Assisi in Umbria to shuffle with the crowds venerating the inventory of bones, dust and tattered cloth to see it’s still big business.
Reading Abbey did not survive the Dissolution, but the Hand just might have! To be taken out of the cupboard every now-and-then is very low key when you ponder where it has been. I wonder though, as the Hand is so small, where the rest of her is?
It is nice to be reminded that no town or village is an island. We are all linked in some way to the wider fabric of our region, or country and our neighbours, and this story of the Hand of St James is a wonderful example of this. Who is up for a pilgrimage?
I am looking forward to next week’s A - Z instalment with the letter K. K is for…..the red kites? Too obvious? What do you suggest?
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Links you will need
St James Way: The return of the UK's medieval highway gives an interesting overview of the route and links with Spain.
Stories in Stone blog explains in some detail about the myths and St James’ legends.
If you see any images you like, for yourself or as a gift, head on over to Chilterns Gifts, our online shop. If, however there are images you don’t see in the shop, contact me here and I can arrange exclusive (framed) prints.
Here are some earlier alphabet editions including;
