Today is Bedfordshire Day. A forgettable day in the County calendar celebrated on 28th November, the birthday of their famous son John Bunyan (1628 - 1688), preacher and author of a Pilgrim’s Progress.
But this is not about him. This week, we are instead chasing a Celtic chieftain and Bedfordshire rabbits high up on a bluff wedged in between some of the busiest countryside in South East England; Luton and Dunstable to the south, Bedford and Milton Keynes to the north.
Sharpenhoe Clappers is a located at the easternmost end of the Chilterns escarpment, crowned with traces of an Iron Age hill-fort and impressive beech wood. Sharpenhoe means ‘sharp spur of land’ and clappers refer to the medieval rabbit warrens that consisted of a heap of stones or rabbit holes for farming rabbits.
Surrounded by huge fields with crops that find their way into your morning Weetabix, this would have a been a remote place, with life on the escarpment in the hillfort offering safety, with a ready supply of clear, clean chalk stream water bubbling up below in the pretty village of Barton-le-Clay.
An easy walk now from the National Trust car park, you can head either way along the circular path that takes you around the edge of the promontory with far-reaching views across the the encroaching settlements.
There’s not much left of the Iron Age hill fort, but it’s not difficult to understand why the site would have been chosen, offering a natural defensive position. The trees on the other hand are lovely, at any time of year. The views open up in winter, and I have visited in spring when the surrounding fields are ablaze with yellow rapeseed.
And what of the rabbits? Whilst there’s plenty of evidence of current burrows, there’s no sign of the ‘clappers’, but their meat and fur would once have been an important part of the local economy.
Declarations of love
A curious phenomena is the sheer number of trees with initials and hearts carved into the bark. Many carved decades ago, with 1976 a popular year! I wonder where the couples are now?
Is seems I missed Cassivellaunus, the brave Celtic soldier who led the defence against Julius Caesar's second expedition to Britain in 54 BC, and is reputed to haunt this hilltop. No sightings of him, but wisps of lurking cloud began to blot out the autumn sun and it was time to head home.
This is probably the most reviewed place on Tripadvisor, with an unfortunate preoccupation with dog pooh. How can we make Bedfordshire Day unforgettable?
All images remain the copyright of Mary Tebje and may not be used without permission.
Links you will need
The John Bunyan circular trail is 87 miles long, but can be enjoyed in stages.
If you like your flavours of sweet jam and savoury sausage coming together in a neat pastry roll, then a Bedfordshire Clanger could be for you. Once the staple of agricultural workers, this is the local version of a Cornish pastie. Here is a recipe if you want to give it a go.
Not sure when your county’s day is? Check here for when to get your flags flying.
This Christmas, celebrate the colours and style of the Chiltern Hills with our range of unique British-designed Chilterns Gifts that reflect the special qualities of our favourite places.