Canal boats, or narrow boats give a whole new meaning to ‘slow travel’.
Everything else travels faster than you do
The Grand Union Canal leaves the River Thames at Brentford and climbs over fifty locks up into the Chiltern hills, descends, then climbs again to a new summit in Birmingham, 137 miles and 166 locks later.
“I have bought a narrow boat and currently at Marsworth, en route to MK. Don’t suppose you’re free tomorrow to do some crewing?”
The journey was from Canary Wharf to Milton Keynes in a slow but steady seven days covering 70 miles and 82 locks to open and close. My part was a mere three miles from Leighton Buzzard to Stoke Hammond with just one lock. Of course I was free to crew!
I am no stranger to the canal network, but usually from the tow path or a pub. This however, was a first for me; crewing on a canal boat - there was a lot to do amidst the sightseeing; making the tea, learning how to open and close very heavy lock gates without loosing my fingers, being able to take a nimble jump onto the bank, making sure the boat was secure whilst the skipper walked ahead to check on moorings and waiting whilst an obstruction was cleared out the way. I loved it!
Almost all the cottages that backed onto the canal had access and a sun terrace to watch the boats go by. It’s another tucked away world.
So very peaceful
I enjoyed how the perspective of familiar countryside changed: at people level along the tow paths and below the water level in the locks. The sound of the railway line crowded in at times, but generally, it was the bird life on and beside the canal that was so unexpected. A stately heron, swans being serene, two sparring moorhens and a garden full of grazing geese.
The cabin is a well-designed space with furniture that folds, collapses or expands as needed. I can’t wait to fire up the coal stove on the next slow winter micro adventure.
Links you will need
To operate a canal boat in England, you'll need a license from the Canal & River Trust Navigation on canals is generally straightforward, but it's essential to follow safety guidelines and learn how to operate locks. Not too difficult, I managed as a novice!
We didn’t have time to stop for refreshments, but the Globe Inn, Leighton Buzzard and the Three Locks Stoke Hammond are on the bucket list.
England is full of quaint customs, some funny and others frankly bizarre. This annual aquatic census is both quaint and oddly bizarre. Swan Upping.