West Wycombe
West Wycombe
West Wycombe is not one place, but a jigsaw of quite different, but complementary pieces that make up this delightful Chilterns village.
Three miles west of High Wycombe, tucked away in the Wye valley is a unique 18th century Italian-inspired Chilterns landscape, built to impress and entertain.
Beside which a tiny village of the most lovely cottages creeps up the hill towards the biggest show-off structure in the region; an 18th century mausoleum to perhaps the most notorious and eccentric show-offs in English history, Sir Francis Dashwood.
Once an important stop for weary travellers heading too and from London by stagecoach along pitted and muddy roads, the high street was packed with hospitality options, although chances are you’d have had to share your bed with a stranger. And lots of fleas! In 1767 there were 17 public houses listed in the village, and today you can stop to enjoy a pint of something local, or cuppa and cake in the one of the tea shops. At least that hasn’t changed!
Pagan worship
Sir Francis was a busy man; building roads, a fine country house, a church, mausoleum and elaborate cave system where he entertained, all using materials hewn from the hillside by the locals at a shilling a day. Visible for miles is the church of St Lawrence - a commonplace name for churches that supersede places of pagan worship. The golden ball that still rises above the tower had space for six Georgian party-goers inside…did they say their prayers? The church is typically open on Sunday afternoons from March until the end of September.
A show-stopper
What does steal the show however, is the mausoleum that straddles the hilltop, still dominating the landscape after 250 years. Based on the design of the Constantine Arch in Rome, this roofless structure is unlike anything else in the country. Built using excavated flints from deep inside the hill, still in the family ownership (the rest of the estate that had to sold following the Wall Street Crash of ’29), this memorial to Sir Francis and his friends is in remarkable condition. Great views from here too.
Beneath the ground, partying continued in the Hellfire Caves, whose unusual design was inspired by Dashwood's visits abroad. The caves extend 400 metres underground, with the individual caves or chambers, connected by a series of long, narrow tunnels and passageways. I haven’t been inside before, so please tell me what it’s like.
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Links you may need
Perfect seasonal gifts from the Chiltern Hills are available online from our shop.
Inside the new Walled Garden cafe, you will find Walled Garden Pottery. Potter John and illustrator Vanessa invite you to come in, slow down and focus on something new. Offering pottery classes and courses where the doing can be more important than the finished product itself. They really enjoy the creative process unfolding as their students - aged from 5 to 85 become more confident.
Two walks to try
The 2.5 mile circular West Wycombe woodland walk takes you uphill through woodland to enjoy far-reaching views, returning downhill to pass the Dashwood Mausoleum and Hellfire caves.
The 4.4 mile circular Bradenham beechwoods walk takes you from the nearby pretty Bradenham village into the Bradenham Estate and a classic Chiltern landscape of hills topped with beech woodlands, gently rolling valleys, and bluebells in spring. The popular Red Lion Tea House serves breakfast, light lunches and afternoon tea. I visited Bradenham earlier this year and recommend stopping to watch the cricket.
🚌 No.40 Red Rose Travel routes between Thame and High Wycombe and No.130 Redline bus routes between Aylesbury and High Wycombe with single bus fares capped at £2 per journey until December 2024.
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